Teaching English in Italy

Teachers' advice / Italy

I spent three years working in Italy, in Milano and Genova. The most astonishing thing that I can remember about moving there is the way everything is so bound up in bureaucracy, and that the men are absolutely enamoured with foreigners.

The first bit of advice I can give is that teachers should have a valid working visa for the country. Although Italy is notorious for perpetuating illegal employment, it is in your best interests to ensure that you are legal in that country. Potential employers from the more reputable schools will consider this an essential requirement for the position. Obviously, we would all prefer to be employed by an A-Grade school, as these are the ones which will offer you better working conditions, better pay, and will look good on your resume.

Many of the major Italian cities have local street press in English, and there is one in Milan called "EasyMilano". It contains a wealth of information on things to do and to be done with other people from the ever-growing English speaking community in Milan. The magazine also includes a classified section, which is a good place to look out for housing. A visa is sort of essential for renting property as well.

Another thing that you must remember to do is report to the local 'questura' or police station upon arrival (I think you have 8 days) with necessary paperwork, and some official stamps. I'm not absolutely au fait with the process, so you should ask at the Italian embassy in your own country exactly what the process is before you even leave. Although there are a lot of Italians now who speak English, it can be very disorienting to have to deal with official business with someone whose first language is not the same as yours. Breakdowns in communication can cost you hours of queuing, so make sure you've got the good oil before you go.

Italy's cost of living is ever on the up. The effect of changing to the Euro is still being felt, and the Italians themselves are critical of their compatriots, whom they accuse of overcharging. The idea was that the Euro was supposed to make everything equal, but now instead of a beer costing 10,000 lire (the old currency), it costs 10 Euro (which is actually double the price!!!). Fresh fruit and veges, and meat can be quite expensive, but as the Mediterranean diet is loaded with pasta and rice and bread, these remain the basic staples which are usually fairly cheap. A cheap night out can be had by getting a pizza from your local pizzeria (less than 10 Euro), and having a beer. Just a little tip that goes with that - Italians tend to drink beer when they have pizza. In fact, a friend of mine once told me that it was easy to pick foreigners in the pizzeria - they would have the wine. Don't let this bother you though. The house wines are usually pretty good, and they're definitely a cost effective solution to drinking, often costing the same as soft drink!

Another little custom to beware of is the full glass. Italians NEVER pour a full glass of any drink when they are at the table (except for beer on tap, which the waiter brings to you anyway). Anything that must be poured into a glass should never more than half-fill the glass. It is seen as greed and bad form. Even water is not free from this requirement. And as for food, always take less than you really think you can eat. You will invariably be offered seconds, and probably thirds, and it is customary to accept these offerings, unless you'd like to offend your host. So the trick to not getting over full, and also not ending up overweight!, is to take smaller portions than you normally would.

Alcohol served in pubs and clubs is not measured either. There is no such thing as a standard drink. If you knew that your limit at home was five drinks before you started to feel a little under the weather, then after five Italians drinks, you'll probably be very unwell. Work on the assumption that in one drink there is the equivalent of two standard ones. LADIES, please heed this as serious advice, as I have seen many girls in regrettable situations as a result of not knowing the strength of the drink.

Make it a priority to learn some Italian before you go. The Italians will appreciate your efforts, and you'll find it easier to get around them. At least know how to buy a bus/tram/underground ticket, order food, and the numbers! It's amazing how numbers are everywhere, and we as language teachers should also have made the effort to learn some of the host country's language, so that we can better appreciate the difficulties facing our students.

Lastly, make it a priority to see as much of Italy as you can. There is not one place I've been in that country which was not enchanting. Having travelled alone, and with friends, from the Alps to Sicily, from Trieste to Ventimiglia and beyond, I have had the chance to see, taste and smell Italy. I have travelled to festivals, street parties, saints' days and sporting events. Immerse yourself in the culture, and you'll be too busy to even think about being homesick. It has the potential to be even better than you thought it ever could be!"
Gina, 28/11/05
I have been living in Italy for over two months now. I moved here because my boyfriend is Italian, but I have been taking Italian classes for a few years. I would strongly suggest that you have a basic understanding of the language, because you will find it slow moving, learning as you go! Especially in a small town, where no one speaks your language. Besides, contrary to popular belief, most Italians only speak one language - unlike Germans."
Stacey, 28/11/05
I have lived and taught English in Italy for many years and would like to add something to the comment about 'the full glass'. People in Italy drink, but they DO NOT get drunk - that is to say, it is very unusual to see people on the street who have visibly had too much to drink, unlike in England where getting legless is considered (by some) to be a fun way of spending an evening. I once asked some students what their ideas about England were and was taken aback, not to say depressed, when the response I got was 'Oh yes, the English are drunken hooligans'. I am not a non-drinker, I like a beer as much as the next person, so this isn't a disapproving comment - it's just so you know if you come to work here!"
Anonymous, 21/04/06
Teaching English in Italy can be very rewarding and well-paid. It can also be an absolute nightmare and very badly paid. "Cowboy" schools who delight in ripping off both students and teachers abound. These are usually run by individuals and in my opinion (and having worked in several) are to be avoided if at all possible.

The way to earn a decent living in Italy is to get a contract or even work casually in a state school. Almost every Italian state school (at least from Middle school through High school- maybe not so many elementary schools) now employ native speaker teachers for various projects. The average salary for this kind of project is about 25 euro a lesson, which works out much better than the average 10 euro a lesson that you will get working in a private language school. Many private language schools also farm out their teachers to these state schools and pocket the money, often forcing teachers to work a very long day which can start as early as 8am and not finish until 10pm in the private school.

Choose a town or area where you would like to work and find the names of all the state schools in the phone book. They will accept people with very little experience as most of the lessons will have an Italian teacher present for discipline purposes and also to evaluate the kids. The last school I worked in employed me to teach 25 classes once a week so the wages were quite adequate for Italy.

Be warned though Italy is expensive compared to most places in the UK"
Lisa, 26/04/06
I lived in Italy (Milan) for almost three years and loved the experience. I will admit that when I first moved there, some things drove me crazy. We take it for granted how easy it is to get things done over here: the long opening hours of the retail industry; the fact that you can just pick up the phone and sort out your bills; you can organise your banking without having to double-check. In Italy, if you are female, you will always be first and foremost female rather than a person (this is slowly changing). You can't just dress how you want, be what you want, do what you want. For all the flesh you see on show in the summer, the Italians are still very traditional. If you decide to make eye contact with an Italian man, this to them means you are interested. Western girls are seen as easy. We have a reputation. And yes, the Italians find our drunkeness bemusing and quite inappropriate.

BUT I made some good friends. I encountered a sense of community in the area I lived in that I have NEVER encountered in the UK. Yes, people are nosy, but they also very often genuinely want to help.

There is not the same degree of violence (ok it gets a little crazy at some of the weekday football games at San Siro where it is wise to take a brolly so you don't get pissed on - oh, and watch out for the falling bicycles) that we have in England. You don't hear about the same level of rapes, murders, child abuse... maybe things are hidden. I'm not so sure. There is more honour there. More respect for the older generation. And, you may be viewed as a sex object if you are female and get your bottom pinched BUT the only people who really offended me were Albanians who exposed themselves or touched themselves whilst following me down the street. The Italian men have too much pride to do such things.

And Italy is so, so beautiful. Travel. Go everywhere. Try all the wonderful food. I found most Italians had a smattering of English and loved to tell me the words and sentences they knew. When I asked old ladies in supermarkets about food, they would give me recipes in simple Italian, trying to explain so I could understand. Supermarket staff at the local store knew me well. The parents of the nightmare but lovely children at the school I taught were so supportive. The kids were just adorable even if a couple were a handful. The Italians... Captain Corelli's Mandolin (the book not the film) sums it up. They... love to eat, be friendly, have heated debates, they love beautiful things and the good life. If you argue with someone who is Italian and you disagree vehemently it's not the end of the world. It's OK. You're just being passionate.

Oh, and the mountains. GO to the mountains. Winter, summer... they're just beautiful. Go and do some bar work in a ski resort but a small one where you learn about what it feels like to be part of a community. I remember going back to Milan and being overwhelmed by the sight of cars and large buildings again. Oh how I miss the mountains.

By the end of my time in Italy I had learned to love the things that had wound me up when I had arrived. The idiosyncracies of a place, of a people, are what makes them different and special. OK, so there is no such thing as a queue. You learn to be more assertive. No bad thing!

Never go anywhere and expect it to be like home. Live, learn and appreciate. And enjoy. We are so very lucky we can travel so easily these days.
Maya, 01/10/06
Teaching in Italy can be great fun as the students are mostly lovely. Things to be aware of are dodgy schools who make you work up to 12 hours a day without a break. Also certain schools don't pay on time. There are lots of good schools out there just don't go to the first one who offers you a job, shop around. You will love Italy. Just like the UK be careful what school you go to."
Martin, 28/10/06
What Lisa said about teaching in the state schools is absolutely correct. However, it's also something of a Holy Grail as most of the state contracts will have been swallowed up by the local language schools. It's not enough to look in the phone book tho', normally you will need to enter a 'concorso' or open competition for jobs; part of the problem lies in finding out exactly when these will take place!"
Clarxpi, 11/03/08
10 euros an hour is about what you get paid in Italy. This is disgusting!"
David, 11/04/08
The wages are less than McDonalds!"
Martine, 28/04/08
Don't do it. I've been here 20 months and worked for 4 schools. Why? Too many promises made and broken. It is the most ridiculous place in the world to work - and I've worked in 7 different countries. The employers are most dishonest (or shall we say they frequently make promises they never keep, cheat with regards to tax and occasionally refuse to pay you - for example if you give notice to quit before they have paid you...) Italians can be nice folks; that's why I'm here, but the job market is run by thieves."
Brian, 24/06/08
25 hours a week contract but you work 40+hours a week."
Steve, 08/07/08
"Italy is too stylish to be hell and also, too chaotic to be heaven."
Sonofjoe, 16/09/08
"I would add that in my opinion Italians do get drunk though they would not admit it. Alcohol and drugs are as big a problem on the streets of Rome as in the UK. My advice is be aware that the Italian obsession with appearance masks a lot of the social, political and burocratic problems that are going on."
Anon, 28/11/08
"It depends on the person running the school regarding how you are treated. I have worked for schools in the north and they seem to be dodgier. While in the south (the provincial south - not Rome or Naples) the people running the schools seem to be more honest and forthright. I imagine that schools in the major cities including Rome, Milan, etc. are horrible to work for. The individuals running those schools tipify the worst stereotypes about dodgy Italians. So be careful!"
Anonymous, 01/12/08
"Being Italian, I can confirm most of the things that have been written on this page, but please avoid any superficial generalizing. Please take also into account that half of Italians, especially those who are honest, are also frustrated by the country situation and would like to leave Italy. Those who are able to, will have to take a stereotype that does not suit them."
Stefano, 08/01/09
"Hi! I'm an American who has been teaching in southern Italy for almost 10 years, and a lot of what I see written is true. Especially the part about Italians' frustration with the impact of the Euro, and the simultaneous need to keep up with appearances. It has made for a very difficult life, especially in the south. But in regards to teaching English in Italy, a new window has opened with the P.O.N.'s. There is more opportunity than ever for a native English speaker, especially one with some experience. At ?60/hr for 50-hour contracts, it's not so bad. Well, at least better than McDonald's. I put some more info up on my blog if anyone wants to do some reading. www.teach-english-in-italy.net"
Ellie, 05/04/09
Ciao Tutti, I had taught English in Bari, Naples, Milano, Roma, Imperia working for language schools. One day I decided to work for myself and opened a language school in ventimiglia in Liguria. I ran this school from scratch for 2 years then I sold it to another ex-pat. Starting your own school in Italy is easy and cheaper than you think. It is cheaper and less hassle to open a school in Italy than Spain. I used to make over 2600 euros per month and work less than 25 hours per week! I have written this easy step by step guide about how to set up your own language school in Italy. www.myscuola.co.uk"
Claire, 03/06/09
No one is getting rich teaching English anywhere including Italy. I suggest that you simply quit complaining about conditions whether they be with private or public schools as each has its advantages and disadvantages. Prepare yourselves as there is a lot of competition for teaching in Italy at every level. Hence, lower wages. And don't think just because you SPEAK English that you are qualified to teach it! Although you may be able to find some private lessons initially to get you by it's never enough in the long term which is why teachers scramble looking for contracts! Oh but here is the RUB...you have to WORK! While Italy is all that everyone has previously pointed out in its beauty... No one is going to give you their good money to finance your holiday vacation. It doesn't work that way. And for most serious private schools with serious clients who pay THEIR good money for language training, they don't want nor need to throw it away on partially qualified part-time "teachers" whose only goal is to talk about their last weekend visit to CinqueTerra.

Dreams of earning 60 euros an hour are just that...DREAMS! Not even middle to top managers earn that in Italy! The average take home wage of most Italians ranges from 1000 to 1500 euro a month on contract. You certainly shouldnt expect to earn more than that. As a novice instructor you should expect about half that amount on contract. Contracts are regulated by STATE law not by the schools (both public or private) Educate yourself not only on what are your rights but what are the rights of your employer as well. That way you won't be surprised when by contract you may be asked to work up until 10pm or a certain number of hours. As with everywhere else in the world don't expect the "Dolce Vita" unless you are willing to work for it.
D Vernon, 21/05/10

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