Country info and advice - Italy
The following comments are from teachers who have taught, or are currently teaching, in Italy. If you are a teacher and have some advice to share, please add it here.
I spent three years working in
Italy, in Milano and Genova. The most astonishing thing that I can remember
about moving there is the way everything is so bound up in bureaucracy, and that
the men are absolutely enamoured with foreigners.
The first bit of advice I can give is that teachers should have a valid working
visa for the country. Although Italy is notorious for perpetuating illegal
employment, it is in your best interests to ensure that you are legal in that
country. Potential employers from the more reputable schools will consider this
an essential requirement for the position.
Many of the major Italian cities have local street press in English, and there
is one in Milan called "EasyMilano". It contains a wealth of information on
things to do and to be done with other people from the ever-growing English
speaking community in Milan. The magazine also includes a classified section,
which is a good place to look out for housing. A visa is sort of essential for
renting property as well.
Another thing that you must remember to do is report to the local 'questura' or
police station upon arrival (I think you have 8 days) with necessary paperwork,
and some official stamps. I'm not absolutely au fait with the process, so you
should ask at the Italian embassy in your
own country exactly what the process is before you even leave. Although there
are a lot of Italians now who speak English, it can be very disorienting to have
to deal with official business with someone whose first language is not the same
as yours. Breakdowns in communication can cost you hours of queuing, so make
sure you've got the good oil before you go.
Italy's cost of living is ever on the up. The effect of changing to the Euro is
still being felt, and the Italians themselves are critical of their compatriots,
whom they accuse of overcharging. The idea was that the Euro was supposed to
make everything equal, but now instead of a beer costing 10,000 lire (the old
currency), it costs 10 Euro (which is actually double the price!!!). Fresh fruit
and veges, and meat can be quite expensive, but as the Mediterranean diet is
loaded with pasta and rice and bread, these remain the basic staples which are
usually fairly cheap. A cheap night out can be had by getting a pizza from your
local pizzeria (less than 10 Euro), and having a beer. Just a little tip that
goes with that - Italians tend to drink beer when they have pizza. In fact, a
friend of mine once told me that it was easy to pick foreigners in the pizzeria
- they would have the wine. Don't let this bother you though. The house wines
are usually pretty good, and they're definitely a cost effective solution to
drinking, often costing the same as soft drink!
Another little custom to beware of is the full glass. Italians NEVER pour a full
glass of any drink when they are at the table (except for beer on tap, which the
waiter brings to you anyway). Anything that must be poured into a glass should
never more than half-fill the glass. It is seen as greed and bad form. Even
water is not free from this requirement. And as for food, always take less than
you really think you can eat. You will invariably be offered seconds, and
probably thirds, and it is customary to accept these offerings, unless you'd
like to offend your host. So the trick to not getting over full, and also not
ending up overweight!, is to take smaller portions than you normally would.
Alcohol served in pubs and clubs is not measured either. There is no such thing
as a standard drink. If you knew that your limit at home was five drinks before
you started to feel a little under the weather, then after five Italians drinks,
you'll probably be very unwell. Work on the assumption that in one drink there
is the equivalent of two standard ones. LADIES, please heed this as serious
advice, as I have seen many girls in regrettable situations as a result of not
knowing the strength of the drink.
Make it a priority to learn some Italian before you go. The Italians will
appreciate your efforts, and you'll find it easier to get around them. At least
know how to buy a bus/tram/underground ticket, order food, and the numbers! It's
amazing how numbers are everywhere, and we as language teachers should also have
made the effort to learn some of the host country's language, so that we can
better appreciate the difficulties facing our students.
Lastly, make it a priority to see as much of Italy as you can. There is not one
place I've been in that country which was not enchanting. Having travelled
alone, and with friends, from the Alps to Sicily, from Trieste to Ventimiglia
and beyond, I have had the chance to see, taste and smell Italy. I have
travelled to festivals, street parties, saints' days and sporting events.
Immerse yourself in the culture, and you'll be too busy to even think about
being homesick. It has the potential to be even better than you thought it ever
could be!
I have been living in Italy
for over two months now. I moved here because my boyfriend is Italian, but I
have been taking Italian classes for a few years. I would strongly suggest that
you have a basic understanding of the language, because you will find it slow moving, learning as you go!
Especially in a small town, where no one speaks your language. Besides, contrary
to popular belief, most Italians only speak one language - unlike Germans.
I have lived and taught
English in Italy for many years and would like to add something to the comment
about 'the full glass'. People in Italy drink, but they DO NOT get drunk - that
is to say, it is very unusual to see people on the street who have visibly had
too much to drink, unlike in England where getting legless is considered (by
some) to be a fun way of spending an evening. I once asked some students what
their ideas about England were and was taken aback, not to say depressed, when
the response I got was 'Oh yes, the English are drunken hooligans'. I am not a
non-drinker, I like a beer as much as the next person, so this isn't a
disapproving comment - it's just so you know if you come to work here!
Teaching English in Italy can
be very rewarding and well-paid. It can also be an absolute nightmare and very
badly paid. "Cowboy" schools who delight in ripping off both students and
teachers abound. These are usually run by individuals and in my opinion (and
having worked in several) are to be avoided if at all possible. The way to earn
a decent living in Italy is to get a contract or even work casually in a state
school. Almost every Italian state school (at least from Middle school through
High school- maybe not so many elementary schools) now employ native speaker
teachers for various projects. The average salary for this kind of project is
about 25 euro a lesson, which works out much better than the average 10 euro a
lesson that you will get working in a private language school. Many
private language schools also farm out their teachers to these state schools
and pocket the money, often forcing teachers to work a very long day which can
start as early as 8am and not finish until 10pm in the private school. Choose a
town or area where you would like to work and find the names of all the state
schools in the phone book. They will accept people with very little experience
as most of the lessons will have an Italian teacher present for discipline
purposes and also to evaluate the kids. The last school I worked in employed me
to teach 25 classes once a week so the wages were quite adequate for Italy. Be
warned though Italy is expensive compared to most places in the UK.
I lived in Italy (Milan) for
almost three years and loved the experience. I will admit that when I first
moved there, some things drove me crazy. We take it for granted how easy it is
to get things done over here: the long opening hours of the retail industry; the
fact that you can just pick up the phone and sort out your bills; you can
organise your banking without having to double-check. In Italy, if you are
female, you will always be first and foremost female rather than a person (this
is slowly changing). You can't just dress how you want, be what you want, do
what you want. For all the flesh you see on show in the summer, the Italians are
still very traditional. If you decide to make eye contact with an Italian man,
this to them means you are interested. Western girls are seen as easy. We have a
reputation. And yes, the Italians find our drunkeness bemusing and quite
inappropriate.
BUT I made some good friends. I encountered a sense of community in the area I
lived in that I have NEVER encountered in the UK. Yes, people are nosy, but they
also very often genuinely want to help.
There is not the same degree of violence (ok it gets a little crazy at some of
the weekday football games at San Siro where it is wise to take a brolly so you
don't get pissed on - oh, and watch out for the falling bicycles) that we have
in England. You don't hear about the same level of rapes, murders, child
abuse... maybe things are hidden. I'm not so sure. There is more honour there.
More respect for the older generation. And, you may be viewed as a sex object if
you are female and get your bottom pinched BUT the only people who really
offended me were Albanians who exposed themselves or touched themselves whilst
following me down the street. The Italian men have too much pride to do such
things.
And Italy is so, so beautiful. Travel. Go everywhere. Try all the wonderful
food. I found most Italians had a smattering of English and loved to tell me the
words and sentences they knew. When I asked old ladies in supermarkets about
food, they would give me recipes in simple Italian, trying to explain so I could
understand. Supermarket staff at the local store knew me well. The parents of
the nightmare but lovely children at the school I taught were so supportive. The
kids were just adorable even if a couple were a handful. The Italians... Captain
Corelli's Mandolin (the book not the film) sums it up. They... love to eat, be
friendly, have heated debates, they love beautiful things and the good life. If
you argue with someone who is Italian and you disagree vehemently it's not the
end of the world. It's OK. You're just being passionate.
Oh, and the mountains. GO to the mountains. Winter, summer... they're just
beautiful. Go and do some bar work in a ski resort but a small one where you
learn about what it feels like to be part of a community. I remember going back
to Milan and being overwhelmed by the sight of cars and large buildings again.
Oh how I miss the mountains.
By the end of my time in Italy I had learned to love the things that had wound
me up when I had arrived. The idiosyncracies of a place, of a people, are what
makes them different and special. OK, so there is no such thing as a queue. You
learn to be more assertive. No bad thing!
Never go anywhere and expect it to be like home. Live, learn and appreciate. And
enjoy. We are so very lucky we can travel so easily these days.
Teaching in Italy can be great
fun as the students are mostly lovely. Things to be aware of are dodgy schools
who make you work up to 12 hours a day without a break. Also certain schools
don't pay on time. There are lots of good schools out there just don't go to the
first one who offers you a job, shop around. You will love Italy. Just like the
UK be careful what school you go to.
What Lisa said about teaching
in the state schools is absolutely correct. However, it's also something of a
Holy Grail as most of the state contracts will have been swallowed up by the
local language schools. It's not enough to look in the phone book tho', normally
you will need to enter a 'concorso' or open competition for jobs; part of the
problem lies in finding out exactly when these will take place!
10 euros an hour is about what
you get paid in Italy. This is disgusting!
The wages are less than
McDonalds!
Don't do it. I've been here 20
months and worked for 4 schools. Why? Too many promises made and broken. It is
the most ridiculous place in the world to work - and I've worked in 7 different
countries. The employers are most dishonest (or shall we say they frequently
make promises they never keep, cheat with regards to tax and occasionally refuse
to pay you - for example if you give notice to quit before they have paid
you...) Italians can be nice folks; that's why I'm here, but the job market is
run by thieves.
25 hours a week contract but
you work 40+hours a week.
Italy is too stylish to be
hell and also, too chaotic to be heaven.
I would add that in my opinion
Italians do get drunk though they would not admit it. Alcohol and drugs are as
big a problem on the streets of Rome as in the UK. My advice is be aware that
the Italian obsession with appearance masks a lot of the social, political and
burocratic problems that are going on.
It depends on the person
running the school regarding how you are treated. I have worked for schools in
the north and they seem to be dodgier. While in the south (the provincial south
- not Rome or Naples) the people running the schools seem to be more honest and
forthright. I imagine that schools in the major cities including Rome, Milan,
etc. are horrible to work for. The individuals running those schools tipify the
worst stereotypes about dodgy Italians. So be careful!
Being Italian, I can confirm
most of the things that have been written on this page, but please avoid any
superficial generalizing. Please take also into account that half of Italians,
especially those who are honest, are also frustrated by the country situation
and would like to leave Italy. Those who are able to, will have to take a
stereotype that does not suit them.
Hi! I'm an American who has
been teaching in southern Italy for almost 10 years, and a lot of what I see
written is true. Especially the part about Italians' frustration with the impact
of the Euro, and the simultaneous need to keep up with appearances. It has made
for a very difficult life, especially in the south. But in regards to teaching
English in Italy, a new window has opened with the P.O.N.'s. There is more
opportunity than ever for a native English speaker, especially one with some
experience. At ?60/hr for 50-hour contracts, it's not so bad. Well, at least
better than McDonald's. I put some more info up on my blog if anyone wants to do
some reading. www.teach-english-in-italy.net
Ciao Tutti, I had taught
English in Bari, Naples, Milano, Roma, Imperia working for language schools. One
day I decided to work for myself and opened a language school in ventimiglia in
Liguria. I ran this school from scratch for 2 years then I sold it to another
ex-pat. Starting your own school in Italy is easy and cheaper than you think. It
is cheaper and less hassle to open a school in Italy than Spain. I used to make
over 2600 euros per month and work less than 25 hours per week! I have written
this easy step by step guide about how to set up your own language school in
Italy. www.myscuola.co.uk
No one is getting rich
teaching English anywhere including Italy. I suggest that you simply quit
complaining about conditions whether they be with private or public schools as
each has its advantages and disadvantages. Prepare yourselves as there is a lot
of competition for teaching in Italy at every level. Hence, lower wages. And
don't think just because you SPEAK English that you are qualified to teach it!
Although you may be able to find some private lessons initially to get you by
it's never enough in the long term which is why teachers scramble looking for
contracts! Oh but here is the RUB...you have to WORK! While Italy is all that
everyone has previously pointed out in its beauty... No one is going to give you
their good money to finance your holiday vacation. It doesn't work that way. And
for most serious private schools with serious clients who pay THEIR good money
for language training, they don't want nor need to throw it away on partially
qualified part-time "teachers" whose only goal is to talk about their last
weekend visit to CinqueTerra. Dreams of earning 60 euros an hour are just
that...DREAMS! Not even middle to top managers earn that in Italy! The average
take home wage of most Italians ranges from 1000 to 1500 euro a month on
contract. You certainly shouldnt expect to earn more than that. As a novice
instructor you should expect about half that amount on contract. Contracts are
regulated by STATE law not by the schools (both public or private) Educate
yourself not only on what are your rights but what are the rights of your
employer as well. That way you won't be surprised when by contract you may be
asked to work up until 10pm or a certain number of hours. As with everywhere
else in the world don't expect the "Dolce Vita" unless you are willing to work
for it.
Hi everyone, just like to add my little two bit.
I've been teaching in Rome for over ten years. The key to success is twofold: set up your own
private lessons and avoid all offers from any schools alike. Charge students 25 euros an hour
and soon you too will be raking in 4000 euros a month. Cheers and good luck to all!
Fantastic and uplifting advice!
Thanks John. I think it has a lot to do with your attitude and your ability.
Can you actually teach? Do you know your subject? Are you going to give a good quality lesson?
If you can say yes then there are always people willing to pay good money for a good teacher.
I am on my way to Rome soon and I think John's advice is definitley something to think about.
Viva Roma!
Don't do it unless you're young, cashed up and
free of any financial or other ties.
I loved living in Rome. I speak fluent Italian and made good friends there, and loved exploring the sites.
The pay was really lousy over there, about 7 euros per hour, and the language schools don't pay
holidays so you will find yourself very short of cash when the schools shut down for a month in
August and also over Christmas. A lot of the language schools are unethical. They will try not to
pay you if a student is a no-show. They also misrepresent the teachers' qualifications to the students.
One school I was working at told all new students that every teacher was a university qualified mother
tongue speaker with at least 5 years' teaching experience, which was an outright lie. I am TESOL
qualified and was earning 800-1,200 euros per month, which is bugger all. Renting a 2 bedroom flat
costs around 1,200 per month, so at least half your pay will go on rent and the other half won't
leave you much to live off. Teachers are paid monthly, and I found that for the last week of each
month I had to put food from the supermarket on my Australian credit card. I came home a few thousand
dollars in debt, and haven't looked back since. I am able to progress my career here and not worry about money.
I also found Italians to be generally very racist towards non-Europeans, which really annoyed me.
People specifically told me "You're alright because you're white and you speak English".
Italians on the whole are a lot less accepting of homosexuality than Australians.
Most of my Italian friends were male. I found Italian women to be quite tense and difficult
to befriend on the whole. My female friends were colleagues from different countries.
There are a lot of good things about the culture. As mentioned by other bloggers, binge drinking
is not common in Italy, which was great. I went out late at least once a week because I felt safe
going to pubs and clubs. Most Italians do not speak English beyond elementary level, so anyone
wanting to work there would do well to study the language for a couple of years beforehand.
Most of the friends I made over there are Italian, and I am aware that speaking the language
fluently made life a lot easier for me.
Another thing I appreciated about the culture was that,
on the whole, young Italian adults are well educated about history, politics and current affairs,
and it is fairly common for strangers in a pub to start discussing the state of the world rather
than football/cricket. I found that the people I met in Rome were on the whole reliable and honourable,
and very loyal friends. Chivalry is alive and well in Italy.
While there are aspects of the culture that I miss, I am happy to be earning a decent wage back
in a racially diverse society where being gay isn't an issue.
English teachers be careful of false contracts,
where no taxes are paid for you, all illegal and there are huge hassles if the finance police come
to the school! I also recommend being part of the CiGL-Nidl, a union for teachers that is not in
the public school system.
Be aware that Italy is a very regional country.
The experience someone may have in regards to attitudes towards women, foreigners, whatever really,
depends largely upon where you are in the country. It is not a large country but the differences in
mentalities and opportunities can vary a great deal, particularly between the north and south.
I am an Australian living in Milan. When dealing with government departments, dont assume that they have
all information on any given subject is in one easy to find place, or that the person behind the counter
has any interest in doing their job and actually helping people, because it isnt always the case. In other
words expect frustration and generally you wont be disappointed.
Italy is such a good place to live if you have some money in your pocket.
The weather is great for most of the year (I live in the centre) and there's so much to see it's ridiculous. The food is
obviously great, the wine is sensational (albeit a bit pricey considering the pitiful measures you get in bars and restaurants)
and life is really nice. Unfortunately, it's getting EXTREMELY expensive here. The average TEFL salary is between €1,000
and €1,300 (for the 8-9 months you will be paid) and you really need to be on the upper end of that scale to have any
standard of living at all given that unemployment benefit for the summer is all but impossible to obtain. A beer in a bar
will cost between €3-5 and a meal €15-100 depending on whether you like pizza or not and the price of petrol is going
to be €2 a litre with a couple of years. The whole country's salary structure has been stagnant since the '90s and the
chances of their going up are zilch. If you fancy Italy it's now or never in my opinion. In 5 years time, half the population
is going to be on the poverty line. TEFLers are already there.
If your advice is about a specific school, please post it in our forum
English Language schools in Italy
TEFL jobs in Italy
TEFL courses in Italy
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